How to Insulate a Basement Wall

In this video I show how to use Owens Corning FOAMULAR 3/4 in. insulation and furring strips to finish a basement foundation wall. After this is done you can add whatever finish wall product you would like such as drywall or osb. I will be doing a wood plank wall and will include a link to that video when it is done.

Here is a link to the finished wood plank wall!

Tools Used-
– Makita Miter Saw-
– Ridgid Table Saw-
– Dewalt Drills-

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39 thoughts on “How to Insulate a Basement Wall

  1. Love this , straight to the point. Thankyou. I have a question. If the the 2×4 are already on my wall, do I just go over the boards with my insulation and then glue and screw them in ? Or should I cut the insulation to fit in between the boards and glue them in?

  2. Did this years ago before I finished my basement. Used 2” foam board and taped all the joints. On top of that I used 4” thick rock wool insulation between the studs. Now that the basement is done I don’t even need to heat the basement. The residual heat coming off the furnace is enough to keep the basement around 67-68 degrees plus my heating bill for the rest of the house dropped quite a bit due to the concrete basement no longer being a huge heat sink.
    I estimate this cost me around $800 to do all this on approximately a 1k sq. Ft baseman’s.

  3. I insulated only one wall walkout basement- the outside wall. The other 3 are surrounded by earth which regulates temperature surprisingly well. Basement is 900sft and heats and cools quickly and maintains it.

  4. To everyone complaining about his r rating get a grip. I just did my basement using R-6 foam. Its 60-70 degrees down there all year long. Feels comfortable to me. To cold, dont go in my basement lol

  5. with a 3" screw do you run the chance of penetrating clear through the cinder block? just wondering if that would cause water to come around the screw an cause problems?

  6. Highly recommended method for finishing basement walls. 1) drylock the walls 2) install 6 mil poly to sill plate and let hang down onto the floor 3) install a 2×4 studded wall 1 inch from block with ploy under the bottom plate and tap on plate to floor 4) insulate walls, no craft insulation just batts 5) drywall. I’ve been in business for 35 years and with consultation with insulation company and my architect and my own demo experience this is a great way to do it for the long haul. Good Luck

  7. For everyone throwing shade about his R rating , relax .
    We have no idea where he lives and this maybe fine. Also the way you insulate in say Minnesota is very different then how you would in say North Carolina .
    I’m not saying this guy is doing everything right but do say this guy knows nothing is a little much .
    Peace and love all

  8. Watch This Old House where they are using 1x3s horizontally and vertically. Verticals are attached 16" O.C. But it still gives an air gap.

  9. Pretty lame, if u r looking to learn something this guy will not help u if u dont already know what to do and can put his job in perspective

  10. Any thoughts on where to buy that tongue and groove foam board…? Nobody seems to carry it anymore… just square edges. Thanks!

  11. It takes a 6 Ft. this block wall to equal a standard 4" framed exterior wall (as far as the R Value is concerned). So in short, I would frame the wall and install 4" insulation to assure a properly insulated basement wall.

  12. Considering the block hopefully being filled with concrete and being only slightly porous to the inside, I think r-4 insulation is just fine for a BASEMENT. Not a downstairs apartment, just a basement. The framing technique is definitely more affordable and lighter duty than buying complete 2x4s or 2x6s and using some fat ass wall insulation, which also costs A lot of money. Well executed job I like how it turned out and putting frame work over the panels, opposed to in between or something,where wood can catch moisture from the block. Hope it’s turned out nice for you so far

  13. Hell i went r10 ridgid framed 2x4s over that,then put r13 in the studs. Warmest part of our house for sure(66 built) highly considering having foam injected in the rest of the house. this guy went cheap

  14. Don't use caulk or construction adhesive, use expanding foam in a can. Use it to stick the foam to the foundation, and to glue each peace together along the seam.

  15. I am not trying to be too critical here but code in most cases is substantially higher R- value. Also a 1×4 along the top and bottom for the wall covering and to nail the base to. Also electrical code will require at least one outlet. This is why I would recommend a professional or you really need to do your homework. It's more involved than they make it seem.

  16. If I was a potential buyer of this house, I'd be pissed to know the basement was done half assed with R-4 insulation. Not to mention the framing will leave the walls wavy as hell. Well executed job, but poor design process.

  17. For future projects (or for other folks looking at similar) where you want the foam insulation but aren't going to add internal framing for additional R value (or for other reasons) you should check out the Insofast product. R8 to R10, has studs built in, raceways for wiring, and doesn't require drilling holes. Using it for our walk-out-basement.

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